Though Mae Sot is firmly situated in Thailand (there are five or six kilometers to cover before reaching Burma), the border significantly impacts much of the thought, work, and discussion that takes place here. (Nearly) all of the expats living here are working with organizations that serve Burmese migrants or refugees, or do cross border work (the rest teach). There are two refugee camps nearby. Many of the town inhabitants are Burmese, and not all are here legally, making their daily doings precarious, ere they run into a Thai official demanding to see papers (there are several checkpoints nearby). The presence of so many Burmese makes the town feel as much Burmese as Thai (food, dress, etc.). Our partner organizations are all Burmese as well.
So not only is it a constant presence, but it presents a constant tension. Several of our partner organizations have been questioned, yesterday and today, about the extent of their operations, thus far with no repercussions. Any organization doing cross border work find themselves engaged in semi-legal activities from time to time. And there is constant concern for the safety of the health workers inside. It requires a very different way of thinking about programs, when in order for a community health worker or field medic to be trained, they must cross a border illegally, and once they are back inside, you will have little or no communication with them until they return for more training and supplies six months later.
There is also, however, a bit of a different kind of border town vibe. As if being here, you can get away with more, that you are only just on the edge of the Thai governments reach. The Thai connection isn't as strong, but the Burmese don't want a connection with Burma, so it feels kind of stand alone in a lot of ways. Or maybe its just that the reality here is so different from most of Thailand - border raids, military patrols, and checkpoints, refugees, and tons of expats that aren't enjoying the beach.
I'm still feeling out the full extent of how the border impacts life in Mae Sot, but it promises to be a starring character.
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